ÅRE, SWEDEN

Åre is a small mountain that skis big. While some areas are perfect for families, there are also challenging World Cup pistes, good backcountry, and abundant cross-country. Basically, there is a bit of everything and something for everyone.

Often overlooked in the current craze for steep, deep and off-piste adventure is the dream of perfect corduroy. The ski world is full of superb cruisers, and Åre has some of the best.

Åre’s night-skiing has been called the best and brightest on Earth. It's hard to prove that, but it is both excellent and popular. Bonus: morning skiing under the lights during the dark days of early winter is also a thing and truly unique.

Åre offers one of Scandinavia’s largest, most easily accessed off-piste areas. The northeast sector of Åreskutan holds one of the country’s most mythical areas, Baksidan (the backside).

Twenty years ago, Åre’s Östra Ravinen (east ravine) was a radical, unmanaged run. Today, only hours after a snowfall, it transforms into a mogul field. So, get there early, but given the various degrees of difficulty, choose your drop-in carefully.

Every ski town looks forward to summer, but Åre takes its time getting there by celebrating vårvinter (literally, spring-winter) —a “fifth season” that only happens in the mountains and lasts longer in the north. This hybrid period of winter up high, summer down low, softer snow, and longer days make for excellent ski touring in warmer temperatures and good visibility.

Åre may be a town of only 3,200, but it eats, drinks and parties like a big city. With some 50 restaurants and bars supplied by 160 local producers, Åre establishments are perennial in the country’s White Guide of best restaurants. Every year, new first-class dining experiences join longstanding favourites, all marrying central convenience, local ambiance, and inventive cuisine that benefits from the presence of Åre’s highly-respected hotel and restaurant school, which has turned out stars like Magnus Nilsson — Sweden’s most celebrated chef.

Suppose you need a break while skiing — 23 on-mountain restaurants and ski huts provide it. With its squeaking floorboards, fireplaces, and wood panels hung with antique farm tools, Buustamons Fjallgard in Buustamons Hotel (on-piste in Ullådalen) offers a Swedish version of the rustic on-slope restaurants of the Alps. Bonus: the basement hosts Sweden’s smallest distillery, where house aquavit is crafted from local ingredients. Hummelstugan, Timmerstugan and La Gondola are a few more to put on your list.

The dinner options in Åre are impressive for a small mountain town. The restaurant at Hotell Granen serves traditional Swedish food with a modern twist and has Åre's best wine cellar. Vinbaren, located on the side of Hotel Åregården, features exciting food creations and a similarly excellent wine list–all by the glass–that makes it as good for après as it is for dinner. Wersen:s is a bustling brasserie and bar on the village square featuring local ingredients, Swedish classics and renowned pizza. Local favourite Broken is an American-inspired institution that serves burgers, ribs, and tacos.

One important thing you need to learn when coming to Sweden is the expression and culture of fika. It's a coffee break, but the coffee can be replaced by tea or even lemonade. A cake or a cookie must be added to make it a real fika. Åre Kafferosteri runs a small coffee shop in the main square. They have their own roastery and also serve sweet treats and sandwiches. Lounge Åre in the Stationhuset and Åre Bageri are other places for a fika. Åre Chockladfabrik, who makes their own chocolate pastries, is five minutes east of Åre, but it's worth the drive to have a fika there.

Après ski may be a religion in Austria, but it finds its Nordic acolytes here. In Björnen, you’ll discover Austrian-inspired Lilla Tyrolen — though the wooden benches, long tables, live bands and a total party at Hotell Fjällgården channel the same vibe. Verandan Åre offers a classic après-ski scene, ditto Timmerstugan at the base by the cable car. If you prefer winding down rather than up, try relaxed Bar Åregården or the peaceful bar at Hotell Granen.

When it comes to breweries, Åre is beer’s best friend. Åre Bryggcompagni was first off the mark with its bestselling “Community Beer,” an IPA that combines taste with charity, with revenue going to support local businesses. Ottsjö Brygghus Café & Pub garners excellent reviews (e.g., “mysteriously good”), and Jämtland’s most extensive beer selection at Parkvillan Gastro-pub includes ten options brewed on-premises as well as the best burgers in town. The newest microbrewery is on-slope Svartbergets Fjällbryggeri, Sweden’s highest at 864 metres.