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Travel
6 min

THE SKI TOWN CITY DREAM

Metropolitan centers at the foot of the mountains
Words by
Tess Weaver
Photos by
Mattias Fredriksson
November 1, 2022

As real estate and cost of living continue to soar in traditional ski towns, all but the most affluent skiers are seeking economic alternatives to dashed rural alpine dreams. These metropolitan centers boast short commutes, easy access, and cultural experiences to offer a different kind of “ski town” dream, no matter if you live there or come for a visit.

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Salt Lake City’s skyline in front of the Wasatch Mountains. Photo: Derek Smith

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Salt Lake City’s skyline in front of the Wasatch Mountains. Photo: Derek Smith

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In eight minutes, the Snowbird tram transport skiers and snowboarders to the top of the ski area, which is less than an hour from downtown Salt Lake City. The tram serves up 2900 feet/884 meters of vertical and the terrain is simply world-class. Photo: David Amirault

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In eight minutes, the Snowbird tram transport skiers and snowboarders to the top of the ski area, which is less than an hour from downtown Salt Lake City. The tram serves up 2900 feet/884 meters of vertical and the terrain is simply world-class. Photo: David Amirault

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Forecaster Drew Hardesty knows how to avoid the lifelines in the Wasatch; go ski touring. Photo: Mattias Fredriksson

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Forecaster Drew Hardesty knows how to avoid the lifelines in the Wasatch; go ski touring. Photo: Mattias Fredriksson

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Salt Lake City, Utah, USA

The outdoor capital in America’s West
There’s a reason Salt Lake City trademarked the phrase “Greatest Snow on Earth.” According to research by University of Utah atmospheric scientists, a delicate combination of climate conditions over Salt Lake City’s Wasatch Mountains causes light, cold powder to fall atop a heavier base, creating the epic powder skiing conditions captured in thousands of magazine pages, commercials, and films.

Skiers can stay and eat affordably in a city of 200,000 inhabitants (1.2 million in the metro area), while easily accessing four of Utah’s best resorts in less than an hour: Solitude, Brighton, Snowbird, and Alta. Of Utah’s 15 resorts, ten are within an hour of Salt Lake City International Airport, a major hub in western America. It only takes one powder day at Snowbird or Alta to see why so many powder addicts, pro skiers, photographers, and ski companies have cultivated a home below the Wasatch.

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Half of Mt Seymour’s 80-hectare terrain is lit for night skiing. Photo: Jordan Manley

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Half of Mt Seymour’s 80-hectare terrain is lit for night skiing. Photo: Jordan Manley

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Downtown Vancouver with the white-capped North Shore Mountains in the background. Photo: Jordan Manley

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Downtown Vancouver with the white-capped North Shore Mountains in the background. Photo: Jordan Manley

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Mountain guide Joe Schwartz scoring April powder on Cypress Mountain. Photo: Jordan Manley

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Mountain guide Joe Schwartz scoring April powder on Cypress Mountain. Photo: Jordan Manley

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Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

Ocean views in the North Shore mountains
While snow rarely falls in the metropolis of Vancouver—a modern, cosmopolitan city set where the Coast Mountains meet the Pacific Ocean—powder stacks up at the city’s three local ski resorts: Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, and Mt. Seymour.

The latter, the only family-owned and operated ski area in the region, and less than a 30-minute drive from downtown Vancouver, offers 200 acres of terrain, including a veritable terrain park serviced by five lifts. Backcountry skiing opportunities from the top of the ski area abound, mostly on rolling terrain, but snowboarders have always found perfect natural gaps and landings to progress on. Across the road from Cypress, one of the most popular ski tours on the North Shore climbs and descends Hollyburn Mountain. The city of 650,000, which prides itself on ethnic diversity, offers a plethora of cultural opportunities including a world of cuisines, frequent live music, and hundreds of galleries, museums, and theatres.

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Due to the proximity to the mountains, the contrasts between city life and incredible skiing in the alpine are sharp in Innsbruck. Björn Heregger on a deep day at Nordkette. Photo: Mattias Fredriksson

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Due to the proximity to the mountains, the contrasts between city life and incredible skiing in the alpine are sharp in Innsbruck. Björn Heregger on a deep day at Nordkette. Photo: Mattias Fredriksson

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Marktbar am Inn is an ideal meeting place in downtown Innsbruck. Enjoy a bite, something to drink but mainly the sun and the views. Photo: Mattias Fredriksson

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Marktbar am Inn is an ideal meeting place in downtown Innsbruck. Enjoy a bite, something to drink but mainly the sun and the views. Photo: Mattias Fredriksson

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The colorful houses on the riverbank in central Innsbruck – an iconic landmark in Tyrol’s capital. Photo: Mattias Fredriksson

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The colorful houses on the riverbank in central Innsbruck – an iconic landmark in Tyrol’s capital. Photo: Mattias Fredriksson

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Innsbruck, Austria

The biggest city in the Alps
Innsbruck is the largest city in the Alps, with a population exceeding 300,000 inhabitants. The Tyrolean capital is the only city in the world to host the Winter Olympic Games three times (including the Winter Youth Olympics).

In just 25 minutes, via funicular and cable car, skiers can pass from the beautiful downtown core, with its charming Old Town that includes 15th-century buildings mixed with contemporary architecture, to the ski area of Nordkette. Descend Hafelar, one of the steepest runs in Europe, and challenge yourself on proper big mountain lines and steep tree chutes. Nordkette offers 1400 vertical meters of skiing straight down to the city. On a good day, the skiing is on par with any of its neighbors in the Alps. After skiing above the city, wander Innsbruck’s historic core, from its cobblestone streets, medieval buildings, and Baroque churches to inviting sidewalk cafes. The “SKI plus CITY pass Stubai – Innsbruck” accesses 13 surrounding ski resorts, selected public transport routes, and 22 city attractions with one ticket. Less than an hour away, the Stubai Glacier offers half pipes and natural jumps at Austria’s largest glaciated ski area.

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Deep powder skiing during the day and big city pulse, ramen, and snow sculpture spotting at night. Photo: Sapporo Snow Festival

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Deep powder skiing during the day and big city pulse, ramen, and snow sculpture spotting at night. Photo: Sapporo Snow Festival

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At Nakayama-Toge, halfway between Sapporo and Niseko, you will find world-class roadside backcountry skiing. Skier: Jacob Wester Photo: Mattias Fredriksson

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At Nakayama-Toge, halfway between Sapporo and Niseko, you will find world-class roadside backcountry skiing. Skier: Jacob Wester Photo: Mattias Fredriksson

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In Sapporo, taxi fares will differ according to the size. The bigger the taxi, the bigger the fare. A medium (chugata 中型 taxi seats four people. Photo: Mattias Fredriksson

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In Sapporo, taxi fares will differ according to the size. The bigger the taxi, the bigger the fare. A medium (chugata 中型 taxi seats four people. Photo: Mattias Fredriksson

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Sapporo, Japan

The capital of Hokkaido is a true snow city
Sapporo was put on the global (ski) map when the Japanese metropolis hosted the Winter Olympic Games in 1972. Today, Hokkaido’s capitol is known for its ramen, beer, and the Sapporo Snow Festival—a week-long winter celebration showcasing enormous, intricate snow sculptures.

With an average of 6.3 meters of annual snowfall, Hokkaido’s biggest city (with 2 million inhabitants) is the perfect base to explore the North Island’s numerous ski resorts. Only 20 minutes from downtown Sapporo, the ski area of Teine offers ocean views and world-class skiing. The resort has some of the steepest in-bounds runs in Japan and north-facing side-country terrain. A little farther, Sapporo Kokusai’s humble five lifts and seven marked runs provide access to endless phenomenal tree skiing. About an hour from the city, halfway between Sapporo and Hokkaido’s most well-known resort, Niseko, you’ll find roadside backcountry skiing at Nakayama Toge, a legendary pass perfect for ski touring.

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Santiago de Chile has a unique location in the Maipo Valley, surrounded by the spectacular Andes Mountain Range, just a long hour to the Pacific coast. Photo: Adobe Stock

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Santiago de Chile has a unique location in the Maipo Valley, surrounded by the spectacular Andes Mountain Range, just a long hour to the Pacific coast. Photo: Adobe Stock

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Valle Nevado is the biggest ski resort in South America and just 1,5 hours from Santiago. Photo: Valle Nevado

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Valle Nevado is the biggest ski resort in South America and just 1,5 hours from Santiago. Photo: Valle Nevado

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Santiago, Chile

City scrapes at the foot of the Andes
Bridging the snow-capped Andes Mountains and the wild Pacific coast, Santiago de Chile serves up historic and unique neighborhoods, exciting street art, bustling nightlife, verdant parks, and a lifetime of gastronomic exploration.

Skiers can commute 90-minutes from the city of nearly 7 million to Chile’s famed Tres Valles: Valle Nevado, La Parva, and El Colorado/Farellones. Valle Nevado is the highest of the three resorts, often offering the best snow in the area, uncrowded powder days, and the most amenities. While the area is known for a lot of low-to-medium-angle terrain, cliff bands and rocky couloirs can be accessed from Tres Puntas, a 5,200-foot-long Poma lift, along with the Andes’ nearly limitless backcountry.

Start photo: Jordan Manley

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Tess Weaver is a writer and editor based in Aspen, Colorado. A former editor for Powder and Freeskier magazines, she has contributed to publications like The Wall Street Journal, National Geographic, The Atlantic, Outside, ESPN, Bike, Surfer, Backcountry and more. Tess is a passionate skier and mountain biker who is passing along her love for the mountains to her two young children.
THE SKI TOWN CITY DREAM
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