Up and Over

Few ski adventures better showcase what’s possible on skis than a point-to-point traverse. This proves that skiing isn’t only a sport but also an enjoyable way to travel through spectacular winter scenery.

Ski traverses in mountain ranges often involve winter camping, which limits them to the severe backcountry aficionado. However, in the Alps, where a vast network of perfectly-spaced huts stretches across many ranges, ski traverses are synonymous with warm beds, hearty meals, hot coffee and abundant beer and wine. Europe originated hut-to-hut skiing, and the continent offers a multitude of routes varying in difficulty, length, and terrain. Despite the comforts, you can still expect an experience with a real sense of purpose — something about traveling through the mountains daily delivers a true sense of accomplishment, no matter how comfortable your bed is when you get there.

THE HAUTE ROUTE

The Original Ski Traverse

The most classic ski traverse in the heart of the Alps, the Haute Route travels from the iconic towns of Chamonix, France, to Zermatt, Switzerland, covering almost 8,000 vertical metres (26,247 vertical feet) and over 100 kilometres (62 miles) of majestic mountain terrain that rarely dips below 2,700 metres (8,858 feet) and only once to a valley floor.

The historic route was originally a summer itinerary devised by Britain’s Alpine Club members in 1861 and first skied in January 1903. Most skiers complete the route in six days (the current speed record is less than 24 hours), staying at five classic mountain huts along the way. The journey crosses glaciers and high passes, offering spectacular views of the Alps’ most famous peaks, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn.

WWW.CHAMONIX-GUIDES.COM

THE URNER TRAVERSE

The Skiers Haute Route

Known as the “Skier’s Haute Route”, the Urner Haute Route connects the picturesque Swiss ski towns of Andermatt and Engelberg and is revered for its high-quality, north-facing ski descents. Just as both these places are famous for their off-piste skiing and frequent snowfall, the Urner Route goes through rugged, steep terrain that rewards backcountry skierss with runs of 900 vertical metres (3,000 vertical feet) and, strange enough, very few people.

Along the route through the quieter but no less spectacular central Swiss Alps, skiers can explore a lifetime of ski lines and summits while staying at reliably clean Swiss Alpine Club huts where there is never a shortage of rösti, sausage and cheese.

WWW.ANDERMATT-GUIDES.CH

THE BERNESE OBERLAND TRAVERSE

The most glaciated zone in the Alps

The most notable feature of the Bernese Oberland Traverse, an iconic route in the Swiss Alps, is the Aletsch Glacier, the largest glacier in Europe, covering about 82 square kilometres (51 square kilometres) in the Bernese Alps. Some compare the route’s terrain and scenery to Alaska but with the unmatched accessibility of Switzerland.

An expensive but oh-so-spectacular train ride takes you to Jungfraujoch, Europe’s highest railway, which tunnels through the Eiger mountain to a subterranean train station at 3,455 metres (11,332 feet). From here, you can start high and descend directly to the huts for a beer on the deck or save money, take the longer route and work your way there, ascending and descending some of the many rugged peaks in the range. This is the most glaciated zone in the Alps, so follow your guide’s instructions.

WWW.SWISSALPINEGUIDES.CH

GRAN PARADISO SKI TOUR

Italian hospitality

Starting and finishing in the beautiful Italian village of Valgrisenche in the Aosta Valley, the Gran Paradiso ski tour travels through arguably the most picturesque national park in the Alps — Parco Nazionale Gran Paradiso. The circular route crosses two valleys and summits and descends the park's highest peak, Gran Paradiso (4,061 metres/13,323 feet).

It provides views of the stunning giants surrounding it, including the Mont Blanc massif. The Gran Paradiso route is less skied than most other well-known ski traverses in this part of the Alps and utilizes huts offering friendly Italian hospitality. On this side of the Alps, hut keepers pride themselves in serving excellent food, great Italian coffee, and, of course, wine.

WWW.GUIDECOURMAYEUR.COM

THE SILVRETTA TRAVERSE

Austria’s classic ski route

A great introduction to hut-to-hut skiing and many a skier’s first European traverse, Austria’s Silvretta Traverse links skiable peaks over 3,000 metres (9,843 feet). Between the ski town of Ischgl and the less-known village of Galtür, along the Austrian/Swiss border, you can expect relatively short travel days, often reliable snow conditions and some of thhe most excellent backcountry huts in the Alps. Picture hearty Austrian fare, sunny terraces, hot showers, soft beds, and plenty of beer on tap.

One hut along the route, the Jamtal Hut, even offers private rooms and an indoor climbing wall. In the end of the traverse, after waking up in the stunningly situated Wiesbadener Hütte, many experienced backcountry skiers choose to summit Piz Buin (3,312 metres/10,866 feet). This is Vorarlberg’s highest mountain, including spectacular panorama views, glacier travel and some scramble in crampons.

WWW.ISCHGL-ALPIN.COM

TOUR DE LA MEIJE

Technical challenge in the Écrins

The more rugged Tour de La Meije travels around one of the most aesthetically pleasing mountains in the Alps — La Meije (3,984 metres/13 071 feet) — in the heart of the Écrins National Park near the freeride mecca of La Grave, France.

This challenging tour combines steep couloirs, glaciated terrain, and sustained vertical and big-mountain skiing with technical sections requiring rope, ice axe and crampons. Memorable descents include skiing under the north face of La Meije and down the massive Tabuchet Glacier or Glacier de l’Homme. The route links the historic and seemingly precariously perched mountain huts La Selle, Le Promontoire and L’Aigle.

WWW.GUIDELAGRAVE.COM

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