Åre, Sweden
Scandinavia's Skiing Hub
Classics
Words by: Leslie Anthony
Photos by: Mattias Fredriksson
Northern Europe's biggest ski resort of Åre, Sweden, offers a taste of northern latitudes—whether in its quaint but modern village, indigenous Sami culture, alpine-racing heritage or the long, low sweep of the fjälls cradling its wide-open backcountry.
Easily reached from major Scandinavian cities,
Åre reflects this in a range of traditional and contemporary dining and nightlife. Despite hosting three FIS World Alpine Ski Championships, Åre's charm in a world of larger, more glamorous ski resorts is that it has never tried to be anything but itself. Unpretentious about its attributes and comfortable in its Nordic skin, it has the character found in a few modern ski areas.
Local Knowledge
Åre is a small mountain that skis big.
While some areas are perfect for families, there are also challenging World Cup pistes, good backcountry, and abundant cross-country. Basically, there is a bit of everything and something for everyone.
Often overlooked
in the current craze for steep, deep and off-piste adventure is the dream of perfect corduroy. The ski world is full of superb cruisers, and Åre has some of the best.
Åre's night-skiing
has been called the best and brightest on Earth. It's hard to prove that, but it is both excellent and popular. Bonus: morning skiing under the lights during the dark days of early winter is also a thing and truly unique.
Åre is a small mountain that skis big.
While some areas are perfect for families, there are also challenging World Cup pistes, good backcountry, and abundant cross-country. Basically, there is a bit of everything and something for everyone.
Åre offers one of Scandinavia's largest,
most easily accessed off-piste areas. The northeast sector of Åreskutan holds one of the country's most mythical areas, Baksidan (the backside).
Twenty years ago, Åre's Östra Ravinen
(east ravine) was a radical, unmanaged run. Today, only hours after a snowfall, it transforms into a mogul field. So, get there early, but given the various degrees of difficulty, choose your drop-in carefully.
Every ski town looks forward
to summer, but Åre takes its time getting there by celebrating vårvinter(literally, spring-winter) —a “fifth season” that only happens in the mountains and lasts longer in the north. This hybrid period of winter up high, summer down low, softer snow, and longer days make for excellent ski touring in warmer temperatures and good visibility.
Some would argue that Sweden never gets any actual powder days. Åre local Lovisa Rosengren proves those who doubt wrong. Photo: David Kantermo
Staff meeting with the Stellar Equipment crew at Åreskutan. This was in November, which many times offers exceptional conditions. And that million-dollar light!
Some would argue that Sweden never gets any actual powder days. Åre local Lovisa Rosengren proves those who doubt wrong. Photo: David Kantermo
Eat, Drink and be Merry
Åre may be a town
of only 3,200, but it eats, drinks and parties like a big city. With some 50 restaurants and bars supplied by 160 local producers, Åre establishments are perennial in the country's White Guide of best restaurants. Every year, new first-class dining experiences join longstanding favourites, all marrying central convenience, local ambiance, and inventive cuisine that benefits from the presence of Åre's highly-respected hotel and restaurant school, which has turned out stars like Magnus Nilsson — Sweden's most celebrated chef.
Suppose you need a break while skiing -- 23 on-mountain restaurants and ski huts
provide it. With its squeaking floorboards, fireplaces, and wood panels hung with antique farm tools, Buustamons Fjallgard in Buustamons Hotel (on-piste in Ullådalen) offers a Swedish version of the rustic on-slope restaurants of the Alps. Bonus: the basement hosts Sweden's smallest distillery, where house aquavit is crafted from local ingredients. Hummelstugan, Timmerstugan and La Gondola are a few more to put on your list.
The dinner options in Åre
are impressive for a small mountain town. The restaurant at Hotell Granen serves traditional Swedish food with a modern twist and Åre's best wine cellar. Vinbaren, located on the side of Hotel Åregården features exciting food creations and a similarly excellent wine list—all by the glass—that make it as good for après as it is for dinner. Werséns is a bustling brasserie and bar on the village square featuring local ingredients, Swedish classics and renowned pizza. Local favourite Broken is an American-inspired institution that serves burgers, ribs, and tacos.
Åre may be a town
of only 3,200, but it eats, drinks and parties like a big city. With some 50 restaurants and bars supplied by 160 local producers, Åre establishments are perennial in the country's White Guide of best restaurants. Every year, new first-class dining experiences join longstanding favourites, all marrying central convenience, local ambiance, and inventive cuisine that benefits from the presence of Åre's highly-respected hotel and restaurant school, which has turned out stars like Magnus Nilsson — Sweden's most celebrated chef.
One important thing you need to learn when coming to Sweden
is the expression and culture of fika. It's a coffee break, but the coffee can be replaced by tea or even lemonade. A cake or a cookie must be added to make it a real fika. Åre Kafferosteri runs a small coffee shop in the main square. They have their own roastery and also serve sweet treats and sandwiches. Lounge Åre in the Stationhuset and Åre Bageri are other places for a fika. Åre Chokladfabrik, who makes their own chocolate pastries, is five minutes east of Åre, but it's worth the drive to have a fika there.
Après ski
may be a religion in Austria, but it finds its Nordic acolytes here. In Björnen, you'll discover Austrian-inspired Lilla Tyrolen — though the wooden benches, long tables, live bands and a total party at Hotell Fjällgården channel the same vibe. Verandan Åre offers a classic après-ski scene, ditto Timmerstugan at the base by the cable car. If you prefer winding down rather than up, try relaxed Bar Åregården or the peaceful bar at Hotell Granen.
When it comes to breweries,
Åre is beer's best friend. Åre Bryggcompagni was first off the mark with its bestselling “Community Beer,” an IPA that combines taste with charity, with revenue going to support local businesses. Ottsjö Brygghus Café & Pub garners excellent reviews (e.g., “mysteriously good”), and Jämtland's most extensive beer selection at Parkvillan Gastro-pub includes ten options brewed on-premises as well as the best burgers in town. The newest microbrewery is on-slope Svartbergets Fjällbryggeri, Sweden's highest at 864 metres.
One important thing you need to learn when coming to Sweden
is the expression and culture of fika. It's a coffee break, but the coffee can be replaced by tea or even lemonade. A cake or a cookie must be added to make it a real fika. Åre Kafferosteri runs a small coffee shop in the main square. They have their own roastery and also serve sweet treats and sandwiches. Lounge Åre in the Stationhuset and Åre Bageri are other places for a fika. Åre Chokladfabrik, who makes their own chocolate pastries, is five minutes east of Åre, but it's worth the drive to have a fika there.
Sleep
In the village centre, the lovely mountain hotel of Åregården dates back to 1895. If you like crackling fireplaces, small libraries and comfortable armchairs, the venerable Hotell Granen also won't disappoint you.Holiday Club, a family activity hotel, features a spa, pool, and gym. Located in Björnen, the modern Copperhill Mountain Lodge is worth a look at for its architecture alone. On-slope, boutique BuustamonsFjällgård in Ullådalen is genuinely unique, and Hotell Fjällgården, overlooking the valley, has a long tradition.
Other Stuff
If you enjoy ski touring, the peaks around Storulvån, about 45 minutes from Åre, are known as some of the best and most accessible ski touring in Sweden. Sylarna, the following range over, is more prominent, steeper, and dramatic.
If you need a break from the hustle and bustle of an international destination, check out the snowy nearby ski area of Huså, an entirely different world. Another way to turn your back on resort reality is with Åreguidena, a guide service offering everything from mountain tours to off-piste adventures. If you're interested in snow science, avalanche study, and local conditions, visit Åre Lavincenter.
Cross-country ski trails are everywhere, from Björnen to Duved and the surrounding countryside. There are also night-lit trails — info and maps are available at aretrails.com.
Åre Sleddog Adventures offers two-hour to all-day tours with genuine Alaskan huskies. Interested in artisan meats handmade with local-only ingredients? Undersåkers Charkuteriefabrik has you covered.
Don't Miss
Åre is the home of Stellar Equipment. This is where the company has its roots, and the marketing office and customer service are still located. We also have a showroom in the centre of Åre, where you can check out the entire collection, shop in-store, enjoy a coffee in the lounge and talk about birds with Tony, Stellar's own ornithologist.
Only 10 minutes from Åre town square lies Ullådalen, the valley of the Norse ski god Ullr, where you'll find a wilderness feel but safe enough for beginners. It's also home to Lillåstugan backcountry våffel (waffle) cabin — a genuine Swedish tradition only a kilometre and a half from the parking lot via cross-country skis and a charming place for a lyx fika (luxury coffee break) — an easy trip even with kids.
Just the Facts
Located in central Sweden, 350 kilometres (217 miles) south of the Arctic Circle in the province of Jämtland, Åre's lift system is spread across the flanks of Åreskutan, a prominent peak rising above Lake Åre. The summit may only reach 1,420 metres (4,649 feet), but sub-Arctic storms can make the weather up top feel like being in the mountains of the Himalayas. The good news is those storms deposit deep snow in lee areas, creating pockets for powdery treasure hunting.
• Skiable area: three sectors; 437 hectares (1,080 acres); ~100 trails
• Parks: 3 terrain parks, 1 halfpipe, 1 snow-cross course
• Longest run: 6.5 km
• Terrain mix: 49%/42%/9%
• Lifts: 46, capacity 43,500 skiers/hr
• Average annual snowfall: 405 cm
• Snowmaking coverage: 60% of piste area
• Vertical: 890 m; top elevation 1,260 m
Getting there: Åre may be 610 kilometres (379 miles) north of Stockholm, but from the convenient Åre Östersund Airport, it's only an hour's drive on a smooth highway, also accessible by bus and train. You can also fly to Trondheim Værnes Airport, about two hours west of Åre. Train, bus or rental car are the last options.
LESLIE ANTHONY is a writer and editor who knows a thing or two about snow. Longtime Creative Director of SKIER, former Managing Editor of POWDER, and author of the book White Planet: A Mad Dash Through Modern Global Ski Culture, the resident of Whistler, British Columbia, continues to appear regularly on the masthead of the world's top ski magazines. His favorite activity? Skiing powder, of course.
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