Alta, USA
The Greatest Snow on Earth
Pow Guides
Words by: Iz La Motte
Photos by: Lee Cohen
Snow clearing early in the morning before the road opens.
Another storm, please dig cars out and move them so the north side of the road can be plowed.
Shooting Baldy with the old howitzer right after the lifts closed.
A few ski patrollers are portrayed on a snowy Tuesday. Alta Ski Area is an excellent place to work.
The village of Alta, Utah,
is perched more than 4,000 feet (1,300 metres) above Salt Lake City, at the high point of famed Little Cottonwood Canyon and two-lane Highway 210. This dead-end corner of the Wasatch Range has been an epicentre for skiing folklore since Alta Ski Area spun its first lift for 25 cents a ride in 1939. Boasting more than 500 inches annually of “The Greatest Snow on Earth,” the powder capital of North America merges powder dreams and big mountain lines. While finding the answer to the meaning of life is not guaranteed in between the canyon’s steep walls, finding good snow inherently is. The list below provides a head start on where to look for the latter — and perhaps you’ll find the former.
Mount Baldy
Inbounds
Mount Baldy looms atop Alta Ski Area, overlooking every coveted powder turn and stoked high five. Rising to just over 11,000 feet, Baldy provides a rare opportunity for in-bounds couloir skiing. However, there are two catches: Baldy has to be open (no guarantee with Alta’s frequent storms), and a 30-minute boot-pack guards the summit. The entrance sits at the top of Sugar Pass, next to the RFID gates that allow skiers to pass between Alta and neighbouring Snowbird Resort near the top of Alta’s Sugarloaf lift. The boot-pack rises almost immediately to a 45-degree incline before mellowing along the ridge to the summit.
Baldy’s Main Chute — with its wide entrance and long, consistent 750-foot vertical couloir — is the most popular line in the zone. But if it’s tracked out, consider the adjacent Little Chute, Dog Leg, and Perla’s. Once you’ve reached the bottom of your descent, scoot skier’s left for fun, poppy turns in Tombstone and round out your lengthy lap with groomer turns down to the Goldminer’s Daughter (GMD) patio in the Wildcat Base Area. Ask the kid in the ordering window for an Alta Bomb — a PBR (beer) and double espresso — and get yourself psyched up for another lap.
Patsey Marley
Sidecountry
Affectionally known to locals as just “Patsey,” this is a favourite for squeaking in sidecountry laps. Accessing out-of-bounds terrain from Alta is a journey (arguably by design), as skiers must have the necessary skills to access turns beyond the boundary lines safely. Skiers must use designated boundary gates, leaving behind controlled avalanche terrain and the readily accessible support of patrol. Have your avalanche gear and knowledge ready to deploy (and maybe a snorkel).
Enter Catherine's Area to your left at the top of the Supreme lift. One of Alta’s (in)famous traverses will bring you to the far eastern boundary of the ski area. Here, pick your weapon of choice: skin track or boot-pack. Choose between seemingly infinite routes down Patsy's face, depending on your up-track. Whether you walk five minutes or thirty up the ridge line, you’ll find good tracks that bring you right back into Alta’s Albion Basin, home to Alta Java’s famous Susie’s Special and another lift-serviced lap.
Storm breaking first thing in the morning. Another epic day awaits.
A lone rider on Wildcat is taking it all in on a big snow day.
Storm breaking first thing in the morning. Another epic day awaits.
A lone rider on Wildcat is taking it all in on a big snow day.
Caroline Gleich is skiing The Emmas in good snow on a frigid day.
Sam Cohen finds the goods with deep, light, cold smoke on classic Alta day.
Tyler Sterling was captured at the bottom of Emmas as it was warming up.
The Emmas
Backcountry
Across the highway, easily scoped from the ski area, lies a lot of approachable backcountry terrain. Accessible via the same parking lots used for in-bounds terrain and only a short 1,600-foot skin from the road, this zone is famous for everything from pre-work dawn patrols to bottomless pow day laps.
Don’t miss south-facing Emmas #1-4 (the numbers denoting the looker’s perspective of the slope from left to right) spanning the slope between Flagstaff and Grizzly Gulch. Several skin tracks, visible from the parking lot, lead to Emma Ridge, shared by Little and Big Cottonwood Canyons. After topping out, there is an option to add an additional lap to your tour via Big Cottonwood Canyon's north-facing West Bowl. Ski back down the way you came up after scoping the best line. After glorious turns down the Emma of your choosing and reaching the bottom of the skin track, you’ll only have one question: Can the rest of your day wait while you get another lap (or four) in?
Mount Superior
Big Mountain
Scraping the sky at just over 11,000 feet, Mount Superior is the centrepiece between juxtaposed Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons. Descending its south face to LCC has become a rite of passage for backcountry skiers in the Wasatch Range. One of North America's 50 Classic Ski Descents and arguably one of the most notable lines in the Wasatch, the face has a reputation that matches the peak’s name.
The skin track is located on the north side of the road directly across from the Alta Lodge entrance. The ascent leads to the top of Cardiff Peak, wrapping around the backside of its summit. Traverse the top of Little Superior Buttress and push through the final bootpack up the Superior ridge. At the summit, breathe in that on-top-of-the-world feeling, rip skins, and ski 2,600 feet straight to the road. The journey concludes with just over a mile walk back to the car unless you’re lucky enough to score a lift from a kind soul headed up to Alta for some turns of their own.
IZ LA MOTTE is an adventure photographer, filmmaker, and storyteller who was raised in the Catskill Mountains of New York and educated in the Green Mountains of Vermont. Today, Iz splits her time between the deep snow and sharp ridgelines of Utah’s Wasatch Range and the serene green spaces that surround her off-grid cabin in the woods of Vermont. She has developed her craft into one that focuses on the human story and its relation to the world. After moving out west years ago, La Motte worked as the staff photographer and videographer at Alta Ski Area for several years.
IZ LA MOTTE is an adventure photographer, filmmaker, and storyteller who was raised in the Catskill Mountains of New York and educated in the Green Mountains of Vermont. Today, Iz splits her time between the deep snow and sharp ridgelines of Utah’s Wasatch Range and the serene green spaces that surround her off-grid cabin in the woods of Vermont. She has developed her craft into one that focuses on the human story and its relation to the world. After moving out west years ago, La Motte worked as the staff photographer and videographer at Alta Ski Area for several years.
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