Jackson Hole
Skiing in Cowboy Country
Classics
Words by: Tess Weaver
In nine minutes, Jackson Hole’s fabled aerial tram—the Big Red—whisks 100 skiers and snowboarders over 4,100 vertical feet (1,262 vertical metres) to the top of Rendezvous Peak.
As you step out of the tram,
you are surrounded by world-class inbounds and backcountry terrain, making Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (JHMR) a necessary pilgrimage for many.
Jackson has been a staple in America’s ski history since the ’60s and is known as one, if not THE, best ski resort in the US. The legendary ski area in Wyoming continues to attract everyone from the regular Joe and the pro skiers to the rich and famous and the dirtbag ski bums, some with the Jackson Hole Airforce patch on their jackets.
Surrounded by two of America’s most famous National Parks, Grand Teton and Yellowstone, and an easy-to-reach alpine, Jackson Hole is a spectacular and unique ski resort. With 2,500 acres of ski runs, a hard-to-beat network of fast lifts, and some of the steepest, longest, and most rugged terrain in the country, Jackson offers both efficiency and adventure at the same time.
Local knowledge
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is considered one of the most challenging ski resorts in the US. With more than 4,000 vertical feet, it is the mountain with the most significant vertical drop in the country. The inbounds terrain holds some of the rowdiest lines anywhere, and the wild backcountry terrain is not for the faint of heart. Our inside guide helps you smartly ski the mountain.
When you get to the mountain, assess the tram line.
If there are fewer than 100 people, jump in. You’ll be in the following box, which means you’ll quickly be shuttled to the top of the mountain.
On powder days,
even if you make the first tram, you’ll be lucky to score more than two untracked powder runs. Instead, head straight for the Teewinot chair, then ride Après Vous. You’ll find fresh tracks for a while after the lifts open in the often-overlooked Saratoga Bowl.
Made it to the top?
If you have time, grab a waffle at Corbet's Cabin. This is your chance to take the leap into Corbet's Couloir. But nobody will blame you for just skiing Rendezvous Bowl (hopefully, the wind has blown it smooth), then hitting Wally World, a north-facing slope that can be full of powdery bumps days after a storm.
When you get to the mountain, assess the tram line.
If there are fewer than 100 people, jump in. You’ll be in the following box, which means you’ll quickly be shuttled to the top of the mountain.
On powder days,
even if you make the first tram, you’ll be lucky to score more than two untracked powder runs. Instead, head straight for the Teewinot chair, then ride Après Vous. You’ll find fresh tracks for a while after the lifts open in the often-overlooked Saratoga Bowl.
Made it to the top?
If you have time, grab a waffle at Corbet's Cabin. This is your chance to take the leap into Corbet's Couloir. But nobody will blame you for just skiing Rendezvous Bowl (hopefully, the wind has blown it smooth), then hitting Wally World, a north-facing slope that can be full of powdery bumps days after a storm.
Afterward,
duck into the traverse near Split Rock, where you can find a few more steep turns before loading the Sublette chair. On your way up, eye your following line down the steep, often chalky Alta Chutes. After skiing most of the runs off Sublette, head to Thunder chairlift for steeps like Tower Three and Paint Brush or to cruise big, open groomers like Grand and Amphitheatre.
Make the longest continuous vertical ski run in America,
11 km from Rendezvous Peak to Rendezvous Bowl to Rendezvous Trail to South Pass Traverse to Gros Ventre; the most direct route, however—and the only chance at “beating the tram”—links famous Corbet’s Couloir, Downhill Chute, Amphitheater, Dick Ditch and lower Gros Ventre.
If you’re up for it,
bootpack up to Headwall or Casper Bowl, a cliffy area where you can sometimes find powder stashes several days after a storm. Although the traditional bootpack is right about the Cirque, head to the White Spider behind Rendezvous Lodge; it’s a steeper and more challenging ascent but shorter and closer to the best skiing.
Afterward,
duck into the traverse near Split Rock, where you can find a few more steep turns before loading the Sublette chair. On your way up, eye your following line down the steep, often chalky Alta Chutes. After skiing most of the runs off Sublette, head to Thunder chairlift for steeps like Tower Three and Paint Brush or to cruise big, open groomers like Grand and Amphitheatre.
Make the longest continuous vertical ski run in America,
11 km from Rendezvous Peak to Rendezvous Bowl to Rendezvous Trail to South Pass Traverse to Gros Ventre; the most direct route, however—and the only chance at “beating the tram”—links famous Corbet’s Couloir, Downhill Chute, Amphitheater, Dick Ditch and lower Gros Ventre.
If you’re up for it,
bootpack up to Headwall or Casper Bowl, a cliffy area where you can sometimes find powder stashes several days after a storm. Although the traditional bootpack is right about the Cirque, head to the White Spider behind Rendezvous Lodge; it’s a steeper and more challenging ascent but shorter and closer to the best skiing.
Eat, Drink and be Merry
JHMR has five on-mountain restaurants,
but more options abound at the base area and around Teton Village. Italian eatery II Villaggio Osteria boasts a salumi bar and an array of housemade pasta. There may be a plethora of sushi and Thai restaurants in town, but you’re better off sticking with your consistent fave, Teton Thai. In Jackson, start your day with carbs at the always-packed Persephone or tried-and-true Pearl Street Bagels.
Sleep
At the high end, there’s Kardashian-favoured, eight-suite Caldera House at the base of JHMR and the Amangani, a luxury retreat perched on a ridge with an infinity pool overlooking the Snake River Valley and Tetons. Stylish, buzzed-about newcomer, The Cloudveil, is part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection and located directly on Jackson’s historic square. A few blocks away, boutique Anvil Hotel offers small but hip accommodations with cast-iron beds, brass fixtures, and custom Woolrich blankets.
Other Stuff
Take in North America's largest migrating elk herd via horse-drawn sleigh through the National Elk Refuge(nersleighrides.com) or take a dogsled tour to remote Granite Hot Springs (jhsleddog.com).
Perched above the National Elk Refuge, the National Museum of Wildlife Art (wildlifeart.org) is home to 5,000 pieces representing wild animals globally. Exhibits at the Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum(jacksonholehistory.org) capture the spirit and culture of the early days of Jackson Hole and its national parks.
America’s oldest guide operation, Exum Mountain Guides (http://exumguides.com/), is the go-to for backcountry and ski-mountaineering adventure within Grand Teton National Park and beyond. At JHMR, an open backcountry gate system accesses more than 3000+ acres, and the resort’s ski guides (including Olympian Tommy Moe) can show you why the area’s sidecountry is among North America’s best—and gain you access to a coveted early tram.
Jackson’s downtown ski area and Wyoming’s first ski area, Snow King Mountain, offers a generous 1,571 feet (479 metres) of steep, north-facing skiing accessed by a new gondola, night skiing, uphill skiing and cheap lift tickets.
Don't Miss
Teton Pass: One of the most convenient backcountry skiing destinations in the West, Teton Pass links Idaho and Wyoming (most of Jackson’s workforce commutes this hairy stretch of Interstate 22) and offers a lifetime of lines that can be self-accessed via boot packing, touring, car shuttling, and hitchhiking, as well as on guided trips with various operators.
Just the Facts
The Tetons rise dramatically from the high plains to over 6,562 feet (2,000 metres), creating one of North America's most aesthetic and rugged ranges and catching storms that drop well over 36 feet (11 metres) of snow annually. Powder days in Jackson are plentiful and life-changing, but the varied and challenging terrain makes the ski area stand out.
• Skiable area: 2,500 acres (1,012 hectares), 133 trails, 6 alpine bowls
• Parks: 4 “Stash Parks” (terrain parks that mix up natural terrain features and creative artificial elements), 2 terrain parks
• Longest run: 11 km
• Terrain mix (beginner/intermediate/advanced): 10%/40%/50%
• Lifts: 13 (including a 100-passenger aerial tram); capacity of 17,833 skiers/hour
• Average annual snowfall: 11,63 m
• Snowmaking coverage: 195 acres (79 hectares)
• Vertical 1,262 m; top elevation 3,185 m
Getting there: Teton Village, home to JHMR, is 12 miles from Jackson and 20 miles from Jackson Hole Airport, which offers nonstop flights from 15 major U.S. cities. The closest big city to drive from is Salt Lake City, Utah, a five-hour haul.
TESS WEAVER is a writer and editor based in Aspen, Colorado. A former editor for Powder and Freeskier magazines, she has contributed to publications like The Wall Street Journal, National Geographic, The Atlantic, Outside, ESPN, Bike, Surfer, Backcountry and more. Tess is a passionate skier and mountain biker who is passing along her love for the mountains to her two young children.
TESS WEAVER is a writer and editor based in Aspen, Colorado. A former editor for Powder and Freeskier magazines, she has contributed to publications like The Wall Street Journal, National Geographic, The Atlantic, Outside, ESPN, Bike, Surfer, Backcountry and more. Tess is a passionate skier and mountain biker who is passing along her love for the mountains to her two young children.